Famed chef Thomas Keller makes $15 cheeseburgers. I drove 2 hours to try one.

"Thomas Keller is one of the most decorated fine dining chefs in the world. His numerous restaurants, including three-Michelin-starred the French Laundry, dominate the short stretch of Yountville's restaurant row. But lately, his customers have had modest burgers on their minds. Earlier this month, Keller resurrected Burgers & Half Bottles, his pandemic pop-up, at the site of his former Mexican restaurant, La Calenda."

"On a recent Sunday morning, my partner and I found ourselves among a group of about 30 individuals standing in line 20 minutes before the opening hour. Since the current Burgers & Half Bottles pop-up launched on Aug. 2, foodies have driven from every corner of the Bay Area to try Keller's take on a classic burger. Unlike the French Laundry, which has a starting $425 tasting menu, the average price on the Burgers & Half Bottles food menu is about $18."

"The core menu is simple: two wagyu burgers - a $14 hamburger and $15 cheeseburger - crinkle-cut fries, and drinks. There are also five sandwiches (the surf 'n' turf can be served two ways), including a $29 lobster roll (that you can enhance with a $30 scoop of caviar) and a $14 spicy buttermilk fried chicken sandwich inspired by the one made at Ad Hoc just down the road, Laos shared. But at this pop-up, the wagyu cheeseburgers reign supreme - and for good reason."

Thomas Keller revived Burgers & Half Bottles as a 10-week pop-up at the former La Calenda site. Staff produce about 3,000 premium wagyu burgers each week. Diners frequently form lines before opening, with patrons traveling across the Bay Area to sample the offerings. Menu prices average about $18, far lower than Keller's tasting-menu venues. The core menu focuses on two wagyu burgers, crinkle-cut fries and drinks, complemented by five sandwiches including a lobster roll and a spicy buttermilk fried chicken sandwich inspired by Ad Hoc. Each 5.5-ounce patty uses custom-ground certified Akaushi and American-breed wagyu and is served on Viennois buns made by the neighboring Bouchon Bakery's head baker.

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