"A generous ham on the table makes my Christmas every year. Whether you prefer green or smoked, free-range or organic, the humble ham is a cornerstone of the festive feast. If you can, go as large as possible, because bigger joints roll and tie more easily, and have a more even layer of fat that results in a better, more generous ham. And, of course, those Boxing Day leftovers are pure joy."
"A good layer of fat matters, because it adds flavour and, when glazed, a delicious, gelatinous crust in fact, that's my favourite bit. Smooth, tender, brine-cured hams are perfect for cold cuts sliced like classic supermarket-style ham. Coarser, organic, nitrite- and nitrate-free joints are ideal for slow roasting, which gives them a much deeper, richer flavour. Nitrates and nitrites have been used for centuries to preserve meat, and help create that familiar blushed pink colour and recognisable flavour,"
"If you're trying to avoid these additives, there are nitrate- and nitrite-free hams out there that are delicious, albeit darker and coarser. Animal welfare matters, too, of course. Free-range and organic gammon is frustratingly hard to find in supermarkets, and even from independent butchers, it seems I've been told by organic butcheries that there is a shortage of organic pork. So for this taste test, I've broken the mould and done my shopping online, seeking out butchers with high welfare standards and nationwide delivery."
A generous ham is the central festive centerpiece and larger joints roll and tie more easily, providing a more even layer of fat. A good fat layer adds flavour and forms a glazed, gelatinous crust when cooked. Smooth, brine-cured hams suit thin cold slicing; coarser, nitrate- and nitrite-free or organic hams reward slow roasting with deeper, richer flavour. Nitrates and nitrites preserve meat and create the pink colour but carry health concerns. Nitrate-free hams are darker and coarser. High-welfare free-range and organic gammon can be scarce; order early from ethical butchers or locally.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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