At Dunsmoor, Food History Roars to Life Over an Open Hearth in Glassell Park

"The Northeast Los Angeles restaurant opened in 2022 and remains a popular stop for diners who appreciate Dunsmoor's commitment to lesser-known preservation, fire techniques, and live coals, which began at his former rotating pop-up series, Fuss and Feathers. The action takes place within his stunning restaurant on Eagle Rock Boulevard, where high ceilings, massive windows, and candlelight are the backdrop for satisfying and signature bluefin tuna toast or Pennsylvania Dutch dumplings prepared with chicken, ham, and beet-pickled egg."

"When sitting down, order Edna's sour milk cornbread, a recipe inspired by food historian Edna Lewis. This version incorporates Hatch chiles for this time of year, cheddar, and a lavish amount of butter. Carolina gold rice is a fundamental side dish next to the beautifully grilled mushroom-crusted pork chop with thyme and smoky lard. On a cold evening, Aunt Emmy's pork and green chili stew with flour tortillas and cheddar might warm the soul."

"It's easy to enthusiastically order multiple starters and mains for the table, but give ample attention to the sides. The cheddar and chive potatoes will be crowd-pleasing, as will the ham hock braised greens with pepper vinegar. If dining with a group, snag a bottle of Tilted Mile's mineral-forward sparkling wine from the Central Coast. It seems impossible, but every seat is ideal at Dunsmoor. Dining at the bar is always a wonderful experience."

Dunsmoor in Glassell Park serves nightly hearth-seared meats and vegetables under chef Brian Dunsmoor's live-coals and preservation techniques, rooted in his Fuss and Feathers pop-ups. The space features high ceilings, massive windows, and candlelight, complementing dishes such as bluefin tuna toast and Pennsylvania Dutch dumplings with chicken, ham, and beet-pickled egg. Recommended items include Edna's sour milk cornbread with Hatch chiles and cheddar, Carolina gold rice with a mushroom-crusted pork chop, and Aunt Emmy's pork and green chili stew. Emphasize sides like cheddar-and-chive potatoes and ham hock braised greens. Bar seating offers a close view of the line and a lively atmosphere. Book slightly before sunset for changing light.

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