
"I have always worn my own label and never anything else. Strangely, I found I just didn't have a good jacket that felt up to the job. So, I was looking in my father's wardrobe, and I found an old Gianfranco Ferre jacket of his from the 1980s. It was in black cashmere with gold buttons. The proportions were all off on me because it was cut oversize"
"I started analyzing why he says, and it was all based on comfort and luxury. Previously, I wasn't doing much cashmere; instead, I had been using rougher wools and Shetlands, stuff that felt more street. But something happened when I tried on this cashmere jacket. It was the fit, it was the material, it was the way it was made."
Umit Benan launched his label in 2008 and built a reputation for elevated street fashion, global wholesale accounts and notable runway shows. In 2022 he radically redefined his brand after discovering his father's 1980s Gianfranco Ferre black cashmere jacket with gold buttons, which revealed a different standard of fit, material and construction. The discovery shifted his focus from rougher wools and Shetlands to luxury cashmere tailoring. The reinvention culminated in a new Milan boutique opened in June and a debut at Bergdorf Goodman, alongside reflections on differences in contemporary and 1980s Italian production quality.
Read at www.esquire.com
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