"Denim. The People's Fabric. That blazing blue badge of sartorial democratization. We all know jeans, we all love jeans, and we all know that jeans are for everyone. But that doesn't mean that all denim is created equal. It may be The People's Fabric, but some jeans are just plain better than others. And the trick is knowing how to tell the good from the bad, the quality from the hype."
""When I look at denim in a store, the first thing I'll do is pick up the garment and feel the fabric," says O'Neill. A lot can be told just from the feel and the weight of it. After that, he moves on to basic, cursory details. "Personally, I would look for it to be 100 percent cotton. I know there are a lot of premium jeans that have stretch in them, but I find the best jeans are 100 percent cotton.""
Start by feeling the denim to assess weight and hand. Prefer 100 percent cotton for authentic aging and fade potential; stretch blends compromise traditional character. Evaluate color depth, aiming for deep indigo and visible weave character that suggests vintage or premium inspiration. Inspect construction details such as chainstitch hems, selvedge edges, reinforced rivets, bartacks, and sturdy pocket bags. Consider fit variables including rise, thigh, and leg opening to match intended silhouette. Check hardware quality and tailored finishing for longevity. Raw, unwashed denim yields the most distinctive personalized fades after breaking in through wear.
Read at Esquire
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