Paul Smith reworks his past at Milan menswear salon show

"Paul Smith showed his collection on Saturday evening at the brand's Italian HQ. Its playful nature was evident from the format as Smith himself compered, with descriptions of the designs and inspirations over a microphone. The clothes demonstrated all the hallmarks that fans have come to love bold prints, great suiting (this time oversized) and bright colours on sweaters and shirts."

"At a preview, he explained the compere format was a homage to the shows he saw as a young man at the ateliers of Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent in the 1970s. I really wanted to do a salon show, he said. Because we're still an independent company, and I still own it, it's so personal in today's corporate world, I think it's really interesting."

"He said the collection had been partly inspired by collaborating with his new design director, Sam Cotton, and Cotton's explorations of 5,000 designs found in the Paul Smith archive. They come back and they go: Look at this,' he says. I say: I did that in 1982.' Yeah, but it's bloody marvellous.'"

Milan men's fashion week proceeds without Giorgio Armani after his death; the Giorgio Armani brand will still present a show. Elder designers Ralph Lauren and Paul Smith also appear on the schedule. Paul Smith presented a playful menswear collection at the brand’s Italian headquarters with Smith compering and narrating design inspirations. The collection emphasized bold prints, oversized suiting and brightly coloured sweaters and shirts. Collaboration with new design director Sam Cotton involved exploring about 5,000 archive designs and reworking standout historical pieces. Smith remains intensely hands-on and retains ownership of the independent label.

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