"The first chapter of Demna's Gucci, which opened Milan fashion week, appeared online a day ahead of schedule (very culturally modish, like a surprise album drop) and ditched the traditional catwalk format for a film by Spike Jonze and Babygirl's director, Halina Reijn, about a fictional Barbara Gucci President of Gucci and of the State of California played by Demi Moore."
"The film's wardrobe told a story about the Gucci family the nerd, the narcissist, the party boy, the diva which sent up the brand while celebrating it at the same time. In other words, Demna showed that he understands right away what Sabato de Sarno, his predecessor, never seemed to grasp, which is that Gucci has to be about more than just clothes."
"De Sarno was abruptly let go from the Gucci top job earlier this year, as his brand of understated urban chic, politely received by critics, proved too dull for restless modern attention spans. Demna was a surprise-choice replacement, a provocateur whose signatures are an almost-ugly bulky silhouette and headline-grabbing fashion week stunts including a catwalk show that turned out to be a Simpsons cartoon, and wrapping Kim Kardashian in duct tape. A bold hire for the home of glossy handbags and sensible, evergreen leather loafers."
Demna opened Milan fashion week with a film-led presentation that replaced the traditional catwalk and landed online a day early. The Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn film starred Demi Moore as a fictional Barbara Gucci and used costume to map archetypes within the Gucci family. The wardrobe and narrative combined satire and celebration to position Gucci as an attitude rather than merely apparel. Sabato de Sarno was removed after critics found his understated approach too dull for current attention spans. Demna brings provocative silhouettes and headline stunts to redefine Gucci's allure and personify the brand as decisive and daring.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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