"The dress, conversely, is 80 years old, and it isn't his. It's by Pierre Balmain - Tron shows me a René Gruau illustration of the look where, with a platter hat, white fox stole and opera-length gloves, the look is borne back ceaselessly into the past. It's an illustration in a book titled The New French Style, of Balmain outfits with an essay by Alice B Toklas, the partner of Gertrude Stein."
"But for him, it's the starting point for a new vision of Balmain, something strict but sensuous, gently rinsed of the excesses of decoration and silhouette of the past few years, but retaining the power."
"Tron's Autumn/Winter 2026 Balmain show - his first - was composed of snippets of history, or rather histories, generally cinematic, and specifically fashion. A backdrop of billowing draped curtains nodded to couture salons of old on the one hand, but also to scenes from the Tony Scott-directed, Bowie and Deneuve-starring The Hunger, about a coven of vampires dressed in Saint Laurent and Alaïa at the cusp of the 1980s."
Antonin Tron, founder of Atlein, makes his debut as creative director at Balmain with a collection rooted in fashion history and cinematic references. His design process begins with a Pierre Balmain dress from the 1940s, which exemplifies the juxtaposition of materials and sensuality central to his vision. Tron's Autumn/Winter 2026 show incorporates historical and cinematic snippets, including references to couture salons, the film The Hunger, and fashion-focused cinema from the 1970s and 1980s. The collection strips away excessive decoration while maintaining power, creating a strict yet sensuous aesthetic that honors Balmain's heritage while presenting a contemporary perspective.
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