Despite its regal branding, chicken a la king reminds me of school dinners.How the mighty have fallen: the boozy, truffle-laced treat of the early 20th century reduced to rubbery chicken in a floury white sauce by its close.But, though the dish seems to have been created in the restaurants of the US rather than the royal palaces of Europe (the legendary New York Times food editor Craig Claiborne remembered it as standard party fare during his 1920s Southern childhood), it's still a sound choice for coronation celebrations.
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