Dish of the week: Drunken noodles from Tao Yuen

"A no-frills establishment located in the heart of Oakland Chinatown, Tao Yuen serves steaming hot dim sum to-go at accessible prices. My go-to order is the ho fun ($6.62), or as my Cantonese-speaking partner likes to call them, drunken noodles. Bouncy rice noodles, thinly sliced cabbage, caramelized onions, and marinated beef are stir-fried in an umami sauce for the dish. It's topped with sesame seeds, chopped scallions, and a smidge of cilantro, creating a symphony of savory and fresh flavors."

"Tao Yuen is known for its heaping portions, so even if you ask for a small box, expect the server to fill it to the brim. (On more than one occasion, I've seen the servers wrap a rubber band around my food boxes to keep the contents from spilling out.) Though enough to keep you satiated for at least two meals, the drunken noodles pair perfectly with their shrimp dumplings, salt-and-pepper shrimp, and fried chicken."

"Of note, this establishment is cash-only, so remember to make a quick stop at the ATM before you go. There are Wells Fargo, Bank of America, and Chase ATMs within a one-block radius. And parking in Chinatown can be tricky, so consider taking BART to the 12th Street/Oakland City Center station (about a five-minute walk away) or parking inside the Pacific Renaissance Plaza underground lot (enter on Webster or Franklin streets)."

Tao Yuen Pastry is a no-frills establishment in the heart of Oakland Chinatown that serves steaming hot dim sum to-go at accessible prices. Long lines form on weekday afternoons as downtown workers and Chinatown residents converge for lunch. The ho fun ($6.62), known as drunken noodles, features bouncy rice noodles, thinly sliced cabbage, caramelized onions, and marinated beef stir-fried in an umami sauce, topped with sesame seeds, scallions, and a smidge of cilantro. Portions are heaping, often requiring rubber bands to secure boxes. Popular pairings include shrimp dumplings, salt-and-pepper shrimp, and fried chicken. The restaurant is cash-only; ATMs are within a block, and BART or nearby parking are recommended.

Read at The Oaklandside