Wolfsbane whimsically showcases California's bounty

Wolfsbane is an herb and a poison, and it also serves as the restaurant’s name. The name comes from folklore where wolfsbane was planted around villages to keep wolves at bay. The restaurant’s interior uses tree branches “planted” above the dining room and open-walled platforms high above eye level that form mini-forests of climbing and entangled limbs. Lighting and wall color emphasize greenness while the atmosphere remains staged but not theatrical. The menu continues the theme with dish names like “petals,” “potato salad,” and “tartine,” and plates commonly incorporate leaves and flowers. Dishes arrive with precise, delicate presentations that pair with a flavor approach using a hero spice for each bite.

"“In folklore, it was planted around villages to keep wolves at bay,” he said. “When you walk through our door, down the hallway, then you're in a place that's there to welcome and look after you.” The toxins that infiltrate our daily lives are meant to remain on the other side of the restaurant's enchanted front door."

"Inside, branches of trees are “planted” above the dining room. They add to the atmosphere by summoning up a production of A Midsummer Night's Dream. Open-walled platforms high above eye-level incorporate mini-forests of climbing and entangled limbs. They are lit up to emphasize their greenness, which corresponds with the fulsomeness of the even greener wall color. It's staged but not stagey."

"Almost universally, the plating incorporates leaves and flowers. The whimsical names of menu dishes-such as “petals,” “potato salad” and “tartine”-defy expectations when they arrive at the table. The entry for petals ($6) lists allium, onion blossom, black garlic. My imagination didn't anticipate four translucent onion skins containing tiny pink pools drizzled with black garlic and topped with purple allium blossoms."

"Blease's minimalism is as painterly and contained as a skilled watercolorist's. Each daub of color is suggestive. Together, the colors contribute to a coherent image on the plate. Flavorwise, the chef chooses one hero spice for each bite. A madras curry powder dominates “eryngii,” served with a side dipping bowl of wheat berries a"

Read at East Bay Express | Oakland, Berkeley & Alameda