"Spago in Los Angeles is the flagship in Wolfgang Puck's international empire a vital part of the city's culinary history, and represents possibly the greatest vibe shift ever in American restaurants. I went back several times because I wanted to see how this restaurant that, both influenced and anticipated some major American food trends over 40 years ago, fit into the scene it helped shape today."
"What I found was an irresistible monument to Wolfgang Puck. I found a beautiful space with great lighting, excellent drinks, a deep wine list, a really fun dining room to be in. But I wanted to love dining at Spago, and over the course of five visits, I found that the extremely expensive food often tasted like it was turned down for background eating muted. It just didn't live up to its own ideal."
Spago in Los Angeles functions as the flagship of Wolfgang Puck's international empire and stands as a vital part of the city's culinary history, representing a major vibe shift in American restaurants. The dining room is lively, the space is beautiful with great lighting, drinks are excellent, and the wine list is deep. Multiple visits revealed that many extremely expensive dishes tasted muted, as if turned down for background eating, and failed to live up to the restaurant's ideal. Simpler offerings shine, especially the smoked salmon pizza (available by request) and celebratory desserts such as souffle and kaiserschmarrn with strawberries and syrup. Spago continues to draw crowds.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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