American distillers have been turning their attention to single malts, defined in Scotland as whisky produced in one distillery from 100 percent malted barley. In the United States these rules are usually followed, but have yet to be mandated by government regulators; it should happen soon.
In Wassaic, N.Y., in the Hudson Valley, John Dyson is betting on the appeal of American single malts at his Tenmile Distillery. A former state Commissioner of Agriculture and Tourism who owns Millbrook Vineyards & Winery nearby and Williams Selyem winery in California, Mr. Dyson hired Shane Fraser, a master distiller from Scotland, to run the distillery. Their Little Rest Whisky, with whisky spelled as it is in Scotland since the distillery produces the spirit as is done in Scotland, is the second edition, recently released after a very limited first run. It's light bronze and scented of toast and honey, with notes of hazelnuts on the palate, and excellent to sip with or without ice. If terroir can shape a whiskey, this one evokes the gentle, welcoming Hudson Valley. The distillery also produces gin and vodka.
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