"Chef Nick Curtola's small plates at the Four Horsemen - "4H," as it's called by the cognoscenti - were inventive but approachable, far-reaching and freely borrowing. (Curtola credits California roots and European training for the mix, which sometimes leaned Spanish, other times Italian, often Japanese.) One of the restaurant's partners is LCD Soundsystem's James Murphy, but it quickly outran any blot of celebrity-restaurant status."
"A decade is a long time to wait for a sequel to a smash success, and the weight of anticipation is heavy. As it is, I Cavallini has an impossible task. It must instantly be the best and the most interesting. It is, in actuality, a warmer, cozier proposition: a neighborhood spot. It would be impossible for I Cavallini to escape its sibling's long shadow. Literally, as it's right across the street."
Harry Styles and Zoë Kravitz dined at I Cavallini on a recent Friday night. I Cavallini, whose name translates as "the little horses," is a ten-years-later follow-up to the Four Horsemen, a demi-size wine bar that helped uncap natural wine in New York. Chef Nick Curtola’s small plates at the Four Horsemen were inventive, approachable and eclectically influenced by California and European training. One partner is James Murphy, though the restaurant outgrew celebrity-restaurant status. I Cavallini sits across the street from its sibling and aims to be a warmer, cozier neighborhood spot. Justin Chearno had worked on the wine list before his death; Flo Barth now stewards an all-Italian list.
Read at Grub Street
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