At seven-, 14- and 62-years-old, these three restaurants were hardly flashes in the pan and yet they will all be gone too soon. We'll miss Ugly Baby for its unapologetically spicy, make-your-nose-run Thai food, M. Wells for bringing the excesses of Joe Beef-style dining to Queens, and La Grenouille for hanging on as so many of its contemporaries disappeared.
No need to spend $125 on tomato leaf-scented hand soap from Loewe. Just drop by the marble communal sink inside this Korean fried chicken restaurant for a pump of the high life.
All you need to know about the reaction to Keens now sharing ownership with the Bubba Gump Shrimp chain is that a recent New York magazine article about the acquisition opened with, 'Maybe New York is dead after all.'
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