"Labor Day weekend, where I'm from, marks the annual West Indian American Day Parade on Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn. That means jerk chicken is on the menu all over the borough, cooked low and slow in smoky grills filled with glowing charcoal and fired with soaked fruitwood chips."
"The authenticity police will tell you that only Jamaican pimento wood should be used for smoking proper jerk chicken. This is not true. The authenticity police can be actual jerks."
"I like mine with coconut rice on the side, into which I stir a can of pigeon peas, along with skillet fried plantains and cabbage that I smoke-steam alongside the chicken before shredding into slaw dressed lightly with butter and flavored with salt, garlic, onion powder and a few sprigs of thyme."
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