"The Horse Apple, a cocktail created by Giuseppe González at the now-closed New York icon Suffolk Arms , didn't really conform to any classic template. "I would call it a misfit," says Jesse Hedberg, owner of Providence's Club Frills . Hedberg had tried the cocktail-a mix of your spirit of choice and Granny Smith apple juice with horseradish grated on top-years ago. "That drink always affected me in its simplicity and how strange it was. It was really delicious.""
"Club Frills belongs to the wave of laidback, ironic bars with a vibe that we've described in the past as "studied nonchalance." Cheeky flavors and a retro, divey aesthetic (complete with a claw machine in the back corner) disguise how much work goes into the cocktails. Take, for example, the High Horse, Hedberg's riff. In his take, the Granny Smith apple juice gets retooled with some acid-adjusting , and the horseradish is transformed into an aromatic hydrosol (a water-based distillate )."
The Horse Apple pairs spirit, Granny Smith apple juice, and grated horseradish to create a distinctly tangy, strange, and delicious cocktail. Jesse Hedberg adapted the drink into the High Horse by retooling the apple juice with acid adjustment and converting the horseradish into an aromatic hydrosol. The High Horse uses Żubrówka bison grass vodka to reference Eastern European flavors and is force carbonated into a highball. The combination produces a tangy apple bite and a nose-tingling horseradish note that can evoke nostalgic flavors such as charoset mingling with horseradish at a seder. Recreating these refinements requires distillation equipment and specialized acid powders.
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