At my first meal at Sukh in Fort Greene a few months ago, even with just two dishes in front of me, I quickly realized I was in a very good restaurant. Khao khai ra-bert, a dark-brown fritter of crispy and fluffy omelet topped with peppery, dry-fried beef over rice, was a feat of texture and spice...
It's a significant leap from just over a decade ago, when Andy Ricker's Portland import, Pok Pok, landed on the Columbia Waterfront and became the most famous Thai restaurant in a city that already had 'nearly 300 restaurants run by Thais,' as Francis Lam reported for the Times in 2012...
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