#suburban-restaurants

#suburban-restaurants

Last month, I found myself sitting in what looked like the world's most boring strip mall restaurant. Beige walls, no signage except for a tiny brass plaque, and a parking lot filled with understated luxury cars. I'd been invited by a source who'd built three successful companies before turning forty. As we ate perfectly prepared Dover sole at 7 PM on a Tuesday, surrounded by other quietly powerful diners, something clicked. This wasn't about exclusivity or showing off. This was about something else entirely.

My parents had a 600-person wedding banquet at the former Empress of China in the late 1970s. For decades, my family association (mutual aid societies based on clans) had annual dinners at New Asia with up to 1,000 guests. However, these massive halls have been disappearing for several reasons: the retirement of owners, the astronomical costs of maintaining large spaces and the city's Chinese population moving to the suburbs.