#homemade-bagels

#homemade-bagels

"Growing up, the business was always part of our daily life. It wasn't just work-it was a family tradition passed down through generations."

Volumes has quickly become a popular destination, known for its superb coffee and a lunch menu that keeps customers coming back. The atmosphere is vibrant, and the food offerings are diverse, catering to various tastes.

Bodegas are one of New York City's oldest and largest neighborhood institutions, with more than 10,000 spread across the city's five boroughs.

The concept is exactly what it sounds like: a crisp, buttery bureka shell gets packed with spiced tomato sauce and a soft, jammy egg, essentially folding shakshuka into a handheld pastry.

Christopher Kostow and his four-year-old bagel operation, Loveski Deli, was coming to San Francisco. And opening day is already here. The Chronicle had the news Wednesday, with Kostow telling the paper that he hopes people will see Loveski as "a lot more than a bagel shop" and not your average "Jew-ish" deli.

Those bagels are excellent: chewy yet airy, with a satisfyingly crisp crust. They're ideally sized for sandwiches, too, and that's the best way to order here. The eggs are always fluffy, and Rollin' is one of too-few bagel spots with Spam as a protein option.

I made a pastry cream with saffron, and bloomed it in the milk for the pastry cream - no vanilla, because we really want the saffron to shine brightly. I decided to make white chocolate tempered with saffron, which I blended and dipped the pastry into, which creates that nice little crunch. It's very saffron-forward, but the white chocolate helps break it up.

Why no customizations? It's quite simple, really. Jewish deli sandwiches are, in essence, a work of art. Between the double-baked rye bread, massive layers of cold cuts, slather of mustard, and sometimes even cheese - if the deli is not kosher - these sandwiches are intricately engineered to give you the best bite every time. For example, to request white bread in lieu of rye, mayo in lieu of mustard, or any other similar customizations would be a downright shanda (shame).

As a European immigrant in New York City, I remember a time, at least 20 years ago, when American bread and pastries, bagels aside, felt nearly inedible. Sourdough was not a thing. Croissants or any kind of viennoiseries were a punchline. There were regional specialties, sure, but broadly speaking, bread culture in New York was bleak.

When John and Sandy Wyer opened Forest Avenue more than 13 years ago, they set out to create a fine dining experience anchored in local ingredients and personal history. Named after the street where Sandy was raised in Queens, the Dublin restaurant braids New York influence with Irish hospitality - a combination that has led to an unexpected following for bread.