www.theguardian.com
10 months agoWhy no choice is a good choice: the return of the tasting menu
Few things divide opinion in the restaurant world like the tasting menu.Over the past 20 years, this extended format has both accumulated cachet as a signifier of culinary ambition and attracted relentless dyspeptic criticism.In 2012, the New York Times's restaurant critic, Pete Wells, was feeling trapped, helpless in the face of marathon meals.