Somaliland, a country born of bombs

An armored vehicle displayed beside Highway 1 in Hargeisa serves as a national monument for Somaliland, a territory with limited international recognition. The vehicle represents a weapon that arrived from Somalia in 1988 to block independence efforts. On May 18, crowds of young people gathered to watch the Somaliland National Day military parade, with the tank visible among the festivities. In 1991, the region declared independence after the fall of Mohamed Siad Barre’s regime, followed by a bombing campaign that devastated Hargeisa and caused massive casualties. Since then, Somaliland has built institutions, held elections, and maintained peaceful political transitions, with its own currency, flag, and army. The parade showcased modest armed forces and strong public participation.

"A tank which isn't really a tank could be the national monument of Somaliland, a country that isn't really a country. The armored vehicle, which rests beside Highway 1 in the city of Hargeisa, depicts what was once a weapon of war that rolled in from Somalia in 1988, in order to prevent this territory in the Horn of Africa from gaining independence. Today, the tank is part of the scenery in the capital of a land that declared itself a republic 35 years ago."

"Almost no country recognizes Somaliland but it's difficult to pretend that it doesn't exist. The war machine was barely visible on May 18, due to the crowds of young people perched on its turret: they didn't want to miss the opportunity to catch a glance of the Somaliland National Day military parade. Back in 1991, the separatist region declared its independence after the fall of Somali dictator Mohamed Siad Barre's regime. Subsequently, a bombing campaign devastated Hargeisa, leaving behind wounds that are still open today."

"According to the authorities who administer this region, up to 200,000 people died, out of a population that, at the time, numbered around three million inhabitants. Since then, Somaliland either an independent state or a separatist territory, depending on whom you ask has built institutions and held elections, with peaceful political transitions. It has its own currency, flag and army. All of this was on display during the May 18 military parade, which passed along one of the city's main thoroughfares."

"Marching down the middle of the road, the armed forces displayed their modest military capabilities, with between 8,000 and 12,500 personnel, according to the London-based International Institute for Strategic Studies. On the sidelines, devoted citizens were draped in the ubiquitous red, green, and white of the national flag: women wore dresses and headscarves (for women and girls, this is a very conservative Muslim country) and men sported t-shirts, dyed hair, sunglasses and goatees."

Read at english.elpais.com