Lei Is a New Jewel of Chinatown

"Doyers Street is a one-block strip in Chinatown that starts off perpendicular to the Bowery and then curves ninety degrees, like a lowercase "r," to terminate against the bustle of Pell Street. A notorious battleground for gang fights in the early nineteen-hundreds, it has, in recent decades, scrubbed out the bloodstains and redefined itself as a beloved, city-grid-defying idiosyncrasy, narrow and wonky and overflowing with atmosphere."

"A new establishment, Lei Wine, opened last June, right next door, and it serves as a potent counterpoint. Modern, sleek, restrained, Lei is the first solo project from the restaurateur Annie Shi, a partner in the chic European-inflected West Village restaurant King and its midtown sibling, Jupiter. Shi, a daughter of Chinese immigrants, grew up in Queens; she's spoken about taking inspiration for Lei from her mother's cooking"

"Shi, a daughter of Chinese immigrants, grew up in Queens; she's spoken about taking inspiration for Lei from her mother's cooking and her father's Chinatown social life. With mahogany wall panels and folktale-inspired murals, the restaurant evokes elements of traditional Chinese design, while its moody, candlelit interior and austere tableware (including chopsticks with riveted, bistro-style handholds) place it firmly in the aesthetic of the here and now."

Doyers Street is a one-block, narrow strip in Chinatown that curves like a lowercase 'r' and retains idiosyncratic atmosphere. Nom Wah Tea Parlor anchors the block and claims to be New York's oldest dim-sum spot. Lei Wine opened in June next door as a modern, sleek, restrained counterpoint. Lei is Annie Shi's first solo project; Shi is a daughter of Chinese immigrants who grew up in Queens and drew inspiration from her mother's cooking and her father's Chinatown social life. The interior combines mahogany panels, folktale-inspired murals, moody candlelight, austere tableware, and high shelves displaying a meticulously curated wine list.

Read at The New Yorker