Some of Texas's oldest barbecue joints close as meat prices skyrocket

Brisket prices have climbed sharply, with one Houston pitmaster paying $5.56 per pound and seeing a 28% increase over the past year. Higher wholesale beef costs are squeezing barbecue operators who rely on affordable, quality meat. Some owners can no longer offset costs by selling other meats and sides, leading to price hikes such as raising brisket by $2 to $35 per pound. The pressure has already contributed to closures of multiple Texas barbecue joints, and further closures are expected during the summer and for years. Industry experts warn the changes could reshape Texas barbecue as businesses face financial risk from volatile meat markets.

"On a recent morning, sitting at a quiet table in his suburban restaurant, he pointed to the number at the top of the column: $5.56. That's the price he pays for a pound of the most important item on any barbecue menu in Texas. Over the past year, that number has risen 28percent, a reflection of the spiking meat prices that have dented the pocketbooks of average grocery store customers nationwide."

"He used to be able to offset the high wholesale cost by selling other meats and side dishes. But this year he realized that wasn't enough. So Roegels made the risky decision to raise the price he charges customers for brisket by $2, to $35 a pound - a 6 percent increase - and hoped his clientele wouldn't defect. "This is as bad as it gets," he said of escalating beef prices."

"Roegels isn't exaggerating. The culinary crisis driven by skyrocketing meat prices has contributed to the closures of some of Texas's beloved barbecue joints: Brett's BBQ Shop to the west of Houston, known for its barbacoa tacos; Kirby's BBQ to the north with its signature increasingly expensive oak-smoked brisket; Sabar BBQ, with its Pakistani fusion sausage, in Fort Worth; Wright on Taco & BBQ in East Texas."

"Owners and experts predict the closures will worsen this summer and continue for years, potentially reshaping the nature of Texas barbecue, w"

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