The Life-Affirming Beauty of California's Channel Islands

"Awakened by splashing, we rushed on deck to watch a light show ensue. 'Dolphins!' cried our captain, Dan. The cetaceans had chased sardines into an anchorage called Ladys Harbor on Santa Cruz Island, where we had pulled in for the night; they now careened around our boat's hull, blowing breath from their air holes and kicking up streaks of neon blue bioluminescence as they feasted."

"An eight-island archipelago stretching from Santa Barbara south to San Diego, the Channels have been a draw for humans for millennia. The Tongva tribe made a currency of beads from shells they collected on the southern islands. The Chumash dominated the northern islands, building villages to support 1,200 people on Santa Cruz, the largest of the Channels."

"Beyond Reason, the 38-foot sloop they keep at Ventura Harbor, is my home now for a week each summer. My wife, Jeanne, various members of her family, and I pack the galley with food and stow dive gear in the head. We secure paddleboards and a kayak to the lifelines, close the portals, and shove off."

The Channel Islands, an eight-island archipelago stretching from Santa Barbara to San Diego, offer remarkable natural experiences for sailors and visitors. The islands have attracted humans for millennia, from the Tongva and Chumash tribes who established settlements and harvested resources, to modern explorers seeking wildlife encounters and ocean adventures. Today, six islands welcome day visitors and boaters, with even Navy-owned San Clemente allowing anchorages. Sailing these waters provides opportunities to witness dolphins, whales, and bioluminescent displays. The islands' rich history includes indigenous settlements supporting thousands of people, followed by European exploitation for military, ranching, drilling, and fishing purposes. Modern visitors experience the islands' enduring natural beauty and ecological significance.

Read at Conde Nast Traveler