A calm day on Macquarie Island features a close encounter with royal penguins on a black-sand beach. The royals are a new “lifer” for a lifetime bird list and the 15th penguin species toward a goal of seeing all 19 species in the wild. The journey spans multiple regions, including Antarctica, Tristan da Cunha, and New Zealand’s Subantarctic Islands. In South Africa, a stop at Stony Point Nature Reserve in Betty’s Bay reveals African penguins near an old concrete boat ramp, prompting strong excitement. Later, during a crossing of the Drake Passage to Antarctica, a first “spark” bird triggers deeper interest in birding.
"It was an uncannily calm day on Macquarie Island, a sliver of oceanic crust located about halfway between New Zealand and Antarctica. Typically, it's pummeled by icy winds and drenching rains. But today, I'm sitting on the black-sand beach under partly cloudy skies, legs outstretched as gentle waves roll ashore. A group of curious royal penguins waddles by, pausing to inspect my muck boots and give me a quick once-over. Sensing another presence, I whip my head around toward the tussocks behind me-lo and behold, two royals have snuck up on me. I pull out my phone to take a selfie."
"Endemic to Australia's UNESCO-designated Macquarie Island, the royals are a "lifer" for me, a term that birders use when you add a new species to your lifetime bird list. And, as it happens, they are the 15th penguin species of my grand pursuit to see all 19 species in the wild-a five-year journey that's taken me from Antarctica to Tristan da Cunha to New Zealand's Subantarctic Islands. But the adventure's not over yet..."
"In January 2020, we were heading back to Cape Town after a languid afternoon of wine tasting, when our driver asked if we'd like to see some penguins. Penguins? I didn't even know penguins lived in South Africa. But who could pass up a chance to see penguins in the wild? Minutes later, we pulled up to the Stony Point Nature Reserve in Betty's Bay and watched dozens of African penguins waddle around an old concrete boat ramp, hop awkwardly from rock to rock, and even loaf like cats. "Oh my God, they're f***ing adorable," one of my companions blurted out. I couldn't agree more."
"At the time, I wasn't especially enthusiastic about birds. But in December 2021, crossing the Drake Passage en route to Antarctica for the first time, I spotted my "spark" bird-the bird, or in my case species-that really got me interested in birding. Clinging to the railing as our s"
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