In the Maldives, Luxury Takes Many Shapes

"Sleek, black, and diamond-shaped, they glided on nine-foot wings, mouths agape, below me. The reef manta rays had congregated in Hanifaru Bay, a shallow inlet in the Baa Atoll, and were spiraling in a cyclone formation to feed. They are one of the reasons the Maldives (#1 Island, Africa & the Indian Ocean) is such a spectacular destination for the style of tourism I love to do, which requires a wetsuit and fins."

"From May to November, when the southwest monsoon blows Saharan sand into the Indian Ocean, minerals from the desert nourish microscopic phytoplankton. At night, when zooplankton rise from the ocean floor to feed on phytoplankton, lunar tides push the minuscule animals into the bay, luring hundreds of rays. In 2011, Baa Atoll became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, which placed its natural resources under international protection."

"I was staying at Finolhu, A Seaside Collection Resort, a serene 125-villa property on one of the 75 islands that make up Baa Atoll. Ivanna Tobar, the resort's on-staff marine biologist (many properties in the archipelago have them), gave us the lowdown as we approached the bay: "No boats are allowed inside, so we have to swim in. We get 45 minutes, then we have to come out." Biosphere rangers would be in the water to ensure we didn't misbehave."

Reef manta rays assemble in Hanifaru Bay, spiraling in cyclone formations to feed on plankton. Seasonal southwest monsoon carries Saharan dust that fertilizes phytoplankton; nocturnal zooplankton rise and lunar tides concentrate them in the bay, attracting hundreds of mantas. Baa Atoll received UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status in 2011, providing protections and enforcing rules. Finolhu resort maintains marine staff and coordinates guided swims with strict limits: no boats inside, a 45-minute swim window, and rangers enforcing no chasing, touching, or riding mantas. Resort conservation activities include ocean-plastics cleanups on Olhagiri islet, where frigate birds breed among mangroves.

Read at Conde Nast Traveler