"The top of the tower had disappeared in the mist, but its bells rang clear and true, tolling beyond the abbey gates, over the slopes of frost-fringed trees, down to the town in the valley below. Final call for morning mass. I took a seat at the back of the modern church, built when the Abbey of Saint Maurice and Saint Maurus relocated to this hill in Clervaux, north Luxembourg, in 1910."
"Although mass is held here at 10am daily, year-round, the monks' ethereal incantations seemed to perfectly suit the season. I left the church, picked up a waymarked hiking trail and walked deeper into the forest and the mood remained. There was no one else around, no wind to dislodge the last, clinging beech leaves or sway the soaring spruce. A jay screeched, and plumes of hair ice feathered fallen logs. As in the church, all was stillness, a little magic."
"This tiny grand duchy, about the size of Dorset, has a ridiculous number of castles as many as 130 (depending on your definition). It's the legacy of being sited at the heart of western Europe, suffering centuries of incursions. Some of these castles have been restored for visitors; some are places you can stay at (with lower rates off-season). Add in rimy forests, chanting monks and the fact all public transport is free maybe the most magical thing of all"
A mist-shrouded abbey in Clervaux rings clear bells signaling morning mass. The Abbey of Saint Maurice and Saint Maurus moved to the hill in 1910, and monks sing Gregorian chant in Latin that fills the nave. Nearby forests offer silent, rimy landscapes with hair ice on logs, waymarked trails, and sparse wildlife. Clervaux Castle dates from the 12th century and suffered destruction during the Second World War. Luxembourg is a small grand duchy with around 130 castles, many restored or available to stay in off-season. Free public transport and atmospheric winter conditions enhance the fairy-tale travel experience.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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