America's drinking habits are destroying Mexico's environment: 'It will take a long time for the ecosystem to recover' | Fortune
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America's drinking habits are destroying Mexico's environment: 'It will take a long time for the ecosystem to recover' | Fortune
"We were taught when to harvest agave, how to care for the soil, and how much we could ask of the forest. Today, that small-scale tradition exists alongside a global boom that has transformed mezcal into a major industry dominated by international brands. As mezcal has spread to bars around the world, so has its footprint on the land."
"Production in Mexico has gone from about 1 million liters in 2010 to more than 11 million in 2024, according to COMERCAM, the country's mezcal regulatory body. Nearly all is produced in Oaxaca, but less than 30% remains in Mexico. About 75% of exports go to the United States."
"In two major mezcal-producing areas of Oaxaca, more than 34,953 hectares of tropical dry and pine oak forests have been lost in 27 years to make room for agave, an area roughly equivalent to the size of the U.S. city of Detroit."
Mezcal production in Mexico has experienced explosive growth, increasing tenfold from 2010 to 2024, with nearly all production concentrated in Oaxaca. This boom has transformed mezcal from a small-scale family tradition into a global industry dominated by international brands, with approximately 75% of exports destined for the United States. While the economic expansion has benefited many local producers, it has created substantial environmental consequences. Over 34,953 hectares of tropical dry and pine oak forests have been lost in major mezcal-producing regions over 27 years to accommodate agave plantations. Traditional knowledge about sustainable agave harvesting and forest management, once passed down through generations, now competes with industrial-scale production demands.
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