The weight of a Michelin star complicates life for Mexico's famous taqueria Califa de Leon
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The weight of a Michelin star complicates life for Mexico's famous taqueria Califa de Leon
"Two hours before its opening in University Park, Dallas, there was already a line stretching more than two blocks in front of El Califa de Leon, the renowned Mexican taqueria with a Michelin star. Expectations were sky high for the restaurant, the original of which is based in Mexico City and last year received one of the highest accolades in the culinary world. The opening was part of a temporary collaboration with a company called GrinGO, scheduled to run from October 17th to 25th."
"Mario Hernandez, owner of the business founded in 1968, had to make the difficult decision to close the Texas pop-up venture just 48 hours after opening and retire before his company's reputation was damaged. The Michelin star, awarded in May 2024, opened an international showcase for him, but it also placed upon him the weight of responsibility that comes with meeting expectations and adhering to quality standards. For us, it's a great joy and a great responsibility, Hernandez told local media gathered at the opening."
"Some people waited five to seven hours only to find they didn't receive the food they had been waiting for. Others made reservations through apps for a specific time, only to receive an order of three tacos two hours later. There were also those who complained about the price of the food. The gaonera taco, which is made with whole beef steak; the chuleta (pork chop) taco;"
A long line formed hours before the University Park, Dallas pop-up of El Califa de Leon, driven by the restaurant's Michelin star and high expectations. The pop-up ran as a temporary collaboration with GrinGO from October 17 to 25 and intended to showcase the signature gaonera taco. Service problems emerged by the second and third days, with patrons waiting hours, missing orders, and receiving delayed app reservations. Pricing drew complaints as tacos were sold at higher U.S. prices than in Mexico City. Owner Mario Hernandez closed the pop-up after 48 hours and stepped back to protect the restaurant's reputation and standards.
Read at english.elpais.com
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