
"Every February or occasionally March I get together with two friends to gorge on pancakes; I provide the pan, Caro does the cocktails and poor old Harry is invariably the chef because she never fails, even three ciders in. With two half-Frenchies in the room, we always start with buckwheat galettes, usually served complete with gruyere, ham and a fried egg (though the more we eat, the more adventurous the combinations become)."
"I suspect we're not alone in sticking with the classics, so I'm not going to suggest too many alternatives, but, given that pancakes are not just for the 47th day before Easter, I do like the sound of Nigel Slater's ones stuffed with cheese and caramelised onion, I know I'd love Yotam Ottolenghi's Austrian kaiserschmarrn and, though they're as flat as they sound, Jimi Famurewa's Nigerian-Dutch puff puff pancakes look incredible."
"But back to my point, which is that crisp, earthy galettes aren't the only delicious thing to come out of Brittany (they're not even exclusively Breton: buckwheat pancakes are also commonly eaten in other places that are similarly too wet for growing wheat). Helen Goh's butter cake, for instance, is emphatically Breton in its celebration of the rich, yellow stuff produced in this wonderfully wild region that's"
Three friends gather every February or March for pancakes, starting with buckwheat galettes topped with gruyere, ham and a fried egg, then moving on to thicker British sweet pancakes finished with lemon juice and crunchy demerara sugar. Meetings rarely fall on Shrove Tuesday, and one year coincided with a vegan Lent, yet the gatherings remain a warming winter ritual. Variations cited include Nigel Slater's cheese and caramelised onion pancakes, Yotam Ottolenghi's kaiserschmarrn, Jimi Famurewa's Nigerian-Dutch puff puff, Meera Sodha's Indonesian salted peanut and chocolate pancakes, and Claire Ptak's cardamom pancakes with thyme-spiked figs. Helen Goh's Breton butter cake celebrates rich Breton butter.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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