"Báco Mercat wasn't the first Josef Centeno restaurant I fell in love with (that's Lot 1), though it's probably the one I've missed most - a low-key hangout rooted in puffy, pita-adjacent flatbread surrounding all manner of flavorful fillings. Centeno's revived it (sort of), along with the more recently closed Tex-Mex favorite, Bar Ama, and his short-lived experimental Takoria at Le DräQ in Downtown Los Angeles."
"The Baco, what many of us came for, has three distinct fillings that give fans what they want. A shrimp rendition feels reminiscent of a Baja-style taco; a wagyu take has chunks of chicken chicharrón. Some come with a new cheese-filled version of the signature bread that we can't oversell (see tip below). The menu's B-side may not be what everyone's here for - but it should be."
"I hate to be that girl, but yes you should get the burger, a thick patty made with a custom meat blend draped in Havarti on a soft (but not too soft) milk bread bun, served with hand-cut Kennebec dill fries. I took my Texan in-laws to Bar Ama once and they still swear it's the greatest Tex-Mex they've ever had."
Josef Centeno revived Bäco Mercat as a three-headed concept blending baco flatbreads, Tex-Mex touches, and experimental fare. The baco offerings center on puffy, pita-adjacent flatbread with three distinct fillings: a Baja-style shrimp, a wagyu version, and a rendition featuring chicken chicharrón; some use a new cheese-filled signature bread. The menu's B-side emphasizes vegetable-centric experimentation, such as romanesco with young huitlacoche. A thick burger with Havarti on milk bread and hand-cut Kennebec dill fries stands out. Bar Ama's queso remains a memorable highlight. The dining room feels casual and unstyled, with a diverse, unconcerned crowd.
Read at Eater LA
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