Koreatown's Enduring Comfort Food Haven Is Halmoni Cooking at Its Finest

"Mukeunji, or very-aged kimchi, features in the spicy braised mackerel (godeungeo jorim), which comes in a small, busted-up metal pot, as if a Korean grandmother had pulled it out of the back of her cabinet specifically for this dish. The deeply umami flavors pair well with the oily, intense fish, while thick discs of softened radish soak up all the sauce."

"Tender short ribs come in standard soy or spicy variants, but servers recommend the classic non-spicy option. Melt-in-your-mouth chunks of beef short rib swim in a balanced braising liquid alongside bite-sized bits of carrot and potato. Fried yellow corvina, which comes two to an order, is a real test of chopsticks acumen, as the flaky, salty pieces are difficult to scoop out (it's okay to get some help with a spoon). Over hot rice and a few bites of kimchi, it's true halmoni food."

"In Koreatown, the number of family-owned, mom-and-pop restaurants continues to diminish every year; late in 2025, iconic grilled pork rib specialist Hamjipark closed in the neighborhood as the family decided to wind down operations. Thankfully, places like Seongbukdong, serving a varied menu of Korean comfort food classics in the same strip mall as TikTok-famous bar Dan Sung Sa, endure after nearly two decades in business."

Family-owned, mom-and-pop restaurants in Koreatown continue to decline; late in 2025, Hamjipark closed as the family wound down operations. Seongbukdong endures after nearly two decades, offering a varied menu of Korean comfort-food classics alongside TikTok-famous neighbors. Owner Young-hee Shon is from South Korea's Gyeongsang-do and serves standout galbi-jjim, fried fish, and banchan. The dining room doubled in size, providing ample space for small and large groups. Dishes include spicy braised mackerel studded with mukeunji and softened radish, melt-in-your-mouth non-spicy short ribs in balanced braising liquid, and fried yellow corvina best eaten over hot rice with kimchi. The atmosphere remains quiet and homey.

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