Inis, London E3: Fresh, hyper-seasonal and absolutely homemade' restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants
Briefly

Modern Hackney Wick features an overground station, reformer pilates studios and a new-build courtyard. Inis is an Irish-influenced bistro in that courtyard serving thick Guinness cake and potato scallops with chip shop-style curry sauce. The restaurant is owned by Lynsey Coughlan, Lindsay Lewis and head chef Craig Johnson. Inis operates for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner and positions itself as a neighbourhood restaurant for repeat visits and family meals. Hackney Wick underwent decimation and reconstruction for the 2012 Olympics and later gentrification brought higher rents alongside street-art tours, sourdough pizzerias and other artisanal businesses. Alfresco dining faces canal traffic such as Lime bikes and joggers.
Modern Hackney Wick has a working overground station, several reformer pilates studios and, since the middle of last year, a new-build courtyard where Inis, an Irish-influenced bistro, serves thick chunks of Guinness cake and bowls of potato scallops with dainty silver jugs of curry sauce. Eat at Inis, then walk back via the artisan fromagerie and the padel court. The Wick was not always thus, especially for diners.
Those who knew the place in the noughties, before its decimation and reconstruction for the 2012 London Olympics, may well lament those bygone days. At one point circa 2005, Forman's fish restaurant, which boasted a view of the canal, was one of the cough sole options round these parts. Back then, the canal, where these days young things frolic, was a swamp of shopping trolleys and sad-looking swans,
Read at www.theguardian.com
[
|
]