"The company's specialty is the nama doughnut (the word, in Japanese, means "raw," or "fresh"), an impossibly moist and light cumulus of starch and sugar that seems captured by gravity thanks only to the marginal heft of various frostings, icings, and fillings. This textural sorcery is achieved by way of a proprietary yeasted dough whose recipe involves, among other things, kabocha squash, which introduces a bit of earthy sweetness and gives the interiors a sunny yellow hue."
"The shop, aggressively minimal, with a soaring blank-white façade that evokes the attenuated minimalism of an Apple Store, is the chain's first outside of Japan, where the brand originated in 2022. Depending on the day, the time, and the weather, you might waltz right in or join a snaking queue of a hundred people alternately wondering if the wait is worth it, gazing up at the "Oh, Mary!" marquee across the street,"
I'm Donut ? opened earlier this year in a sleek Times Square storefront as the chain's first location outside Japan. The nama doughnut is a moist, light, yeasted pastry that incorporates kabocha squash for earthy sweetness and a sunny yellow interior. The brand's original doughnut is sugar-dusted, holeless, airy, and warmly yeasty. Filled and decorated variations offer vivid flavored creams and can exceed ten dollars. The New York shop's aggressively minimal, Apple Store–like façade and persistent long lines have made it a sustained sensation.
Read at The New Yorker
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