Butter bean and mushroom soup and squid toasts: Emily Roux's autumn starters

"I remember always burning my fingers as I tried to peel them, yet still I went back for more. To me, autumn is all about earthy flavours and a comforting sense of nostalgia. It also marks a new chapter in the kitchen, because the start of any new season is the most exciting time in a restaurant, when we get a whole new set of ingredients to work with."

"Put the vinegar, sugar, salt and peppercorns in a saucepan, bring to a simmer and cook for a minute, stirring so the salt and sugar dissolve. Take off the heat. Fill and boil the kettle, then pour the boiling water over the onion rings and leave to drain and cool. Once the onions are cool to the touch, pack the rings into a sterilised 500g jar, then pour over the warm pickling liquor, seal and leave to steep for at least two hours."

I have vivid memories of picking up fallen chestnuts with my mum, kicking through piles of leaves to find them and bringing them home to roast. Burning fingers while peeling did not stop returning to gather more. Autumn is associated with earthy flavours and comforting nostalgia. The start of a new season brings a fresh set of ingredients to the kitchen and energises restaurant cooking. Butter bean velouté with mixed mushrooms and pickled onions combines butter beans, lemon, olive oil, assorted mushrooms, and pickled red onion rings. Pickled onions are made by simmering cider vinegar with sugar, salt and peppercorns, pouring boiling water over sliced onions, then steeping in a jar for at least two hours.

Read at www.theguardian.com