Bread in Mexico: A matter of state
Briefly

Bread in Mexico: A matter of state
"When Araceli Maldonado, a Mexican baker in London, read on Instagram that British chef Richard Hart had said that Mexico didn't have a bread culture, she felt a pang of sadness. On her last trip back home, she decided to visit the bakery that Hart had opened in the heart of the Roma neighborhood in Mexico City."
"Hart's prestige in the culinary world couldn't save him from the flames of Mexican resentment. The iconic pastry chef owner of the legendary Hart Bageri bakery in Copenhagen, which he founded with Rene Redzepi of Noma forged a career that led him to open several locations in Denmark. He even made an appearance on The Bear, the popular Disney+ series."
"He opened his first establishment outside of Europe this past summer, choosing Mexico City to bring Green Rhino to life. It's a gourmet bakery in the heart of Roma, one of the city's most gentrified neighborhoods, which has a large foreign population. A year earlier, in a podcast where he announced that he was going to open the best bakery in the world, he casually remarked that Mexicans don't really have much of a bread culture."
Araceli Maldonado, a Mexican baker in London, saw a claim on Instagram that British chef Richard Hart said Mexico didn't have a bread culture, prompting her to visit his Roma bakery and taste a garibaldi, which she found delicious. Green Rhino's viral marketing and Hart's negative remarks about Mexican bread production sparked controversy and Mexican resentment. Mexico centers on corn and tortillas but also consumes sweet bread throughout the day. Hart's culinary prestige, including Hart Bageri's success with Rene Redzepi and an appearance on The Bear, did not prevent backlash after his podcast comments that Mexicans lack a bread culture.
Read at english.elpais.com
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