"Over a lunch at Brasserie Constance in Fulham, west London, eating my main course claypot chicken with barley while surrounded by smiling diners at other tables, I got a glimpse of how it must feel to be Kim Jong-un. My journey to Fulham Pier had been odd enough, but now I was in my Great Dictator era. Actually, maybe I should wind back a little."
"Constance, the website says, is on the banks of the Thames, where the river's beauty is on full display. It is a restaurant named in tribute to the mid-20th-century florist, potter and cook Constance Spry, a doyenne of domestic bliss who is the inspiration for this classy brasserie where coronation chicken pate en croute, potted duck with damson and Devon split with mead and greengages are on offer."
"In fact, your first clue to that fact will probably be when the taxi driver turfs you out by the ticket kiosk. Signage guiding you from there to Brasserie Constance itself, however, is non-existent. Nada, zilch not even a timely Post-it note stuck to the ticket office door; even the Craven Cottage staff seemed not to have heard of the new restaurant's existence."
Brasserie Constance presents itself as a dreamy riverside brasserie inspired by mid-20th-century Constance Spry, offering dishes such as coronation chicken pate en croute, potted duck with damson, day-boat skate with lovage and baked Alaska. The website positions the restaurant on Thames banks with river views. The venue actually occupies an opulent corporate box inside Craven Cottage, Fulham Football Club's ground. Signage is non-existent and taxi drivers may drop guests at the ticket kiosk; even club staff may be unaware of the restaurant. Diners may find themselves wandering corporate suites before locating the dining room.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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