"The other day, while shopping for dried figs and pink, plum-soaked sesame seeds at the East Village spice store SOS Chefs, I asked the baker and cookbook author Bryan Ford where in the city he'd go for a baguette or a croissant. "I wouldn't!" Ford, who is thirty-six, barrel-chested, and bearded, with a propensity for four-letter words, said, laughing. "That's just not what I crave.""
"Born in the Bronx and raised in New Orleans, Ford specializes in breads that can be harder to find in New York: sourdough pan de coco (soft, sweet dinner rolls made with coconut milk, a staple in his parents' native Honduras); conchas and other Mexican pan dulce; pan chapla, an anise-scented Peruvian loaf that is leavened with chicha de jora, a fermented corn beverage."
Diljān, in Brooklyn Heights, introduces a classic Afghan flatbread alongside New York’s celebrated sourdoughs and croissants. Bryan Ford, born in the Bronx and raised in New Orleans, focuses on less-common breads such as sourdough pan de coco, conchas, pan chapla leavened with chicha de jora, and alfajores. Ford spent time baking for restaurants and food festivals and traveled between New York and Florida with his wife, Bridget Kenna. His cookbooks Pan y Dulce and New World Sourdough support a mission to decolonize baking by showcasing the breadth and complexity of Latin American and Caribbean bread traditions.
Read at The New Yorker
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