"Lantink's first look simultaneously referenced two of Gaultier's most recognisable and significant looks and collections - his Autumn/Winter 1995 Mad Max collection, and a dress from his Autumn/Winter 1984 show, Barbès. The latter is, arguably, the most famous Gaultier garment of all time - a velvet dress, ruched like an Austrian blind, with vast protruding cone breasts in a virulent shade of clementine orange."
"The same colour was used in the Mad Max show for a pneumatically-padded 'sleeping bag' dress, the models resembling "every embodiment of the dangerous, indestructible woman as found in science fiction and on MTV," according to Amy Spindler of the New York Times. Both collections proposed images of women as forceful entities at one with their sexuality and physicality - powerful in their hyper-femininity, rather than masculinised. Lantink used that colour and those blown-up, pumped-out proportions as his opening statement on his reimagining of Gaultier."
Duran Lantink permanently assumed creative control of the house and presented his debut Spring/Summer 2026 ready-to-wear collection. The collection embraced a Grand Voyage theme, mining the designer's back catalogue to reinterpret signature Gaultier elements for a new era. Lantink referenced landmark Gaultier moments such as the Autumn/Winter 1995 Mad Max collection and the Autumn/Winter 1984 Barbès velvet dress with exaggerated cone breasts, reviving the vivid clementine orange and inflated proportions. The presentation evoked images of women as forceful, hyper-feminine entities through pumped-up silhouettes. Historical influences from Yves Saint Laurent's trenchcoat reinterpretations also informed tailored trompe l'oeil and deconstructed outerwear treatments.
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