"Surrounded by darkness, Iris van Herpen's dress came to life with the glow of reactive bioluminescent algae during Paris Haute Couture Week 2025. Co-created with biodesigner Christopher Bellamy, also known as Bio Crafted, the piece features 125 million bioluminescent algae, illuminated against a runway set designed with light sculptures by artist Nick Verstand. In an with designboom, Bellamy explains that he initially developed the technique for encapsulating the microalgae in collaboration with indigenous artists and scientists in French Polynesia."
"'A bespoke 35-step process was developed, which encapsulates the algae in a nutrient gel and protective coating, allowing them to survive for many months,' he says. Once encapsulated, the algae require only regular sunlight to photosynthesize and maintain their circadian rhythm. The biomaterial can thrive for months, even in hot conditions, and Bellamy notes that some samples have survived for over a year."
Fashion in 2025 showcased experimental fusions of biotechnology, materials science, and playful design that transformed familiar garments and accessories. Designers deployed living and engineered materials, such as bioluminescent algae encapsulated in nutrient gels, to create dynamic, light-emitting couture. Protective innovation appeared in antiviral apparel, exemplified by copper-infused jackets designed to inactivate pathogens. Novel accessories and wearable consumer tech went viral, from spiral baguette holders to backpacks integrating audio devices. Interdisciplinary collaboration with scientists, indigenous communities, and artists drove technical development and runway spectacle. Several materials remain highly experimental and require continued study for durability and behavior.
Read at designboom | architecture & design magazine
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