"When you talk about modern fashion legacies, that of Jil Sander is a tricky one. Mainly because it's both everything and nothing. A minimalist who helped shape the direction of late-1990s fashion, a period subject to sporadic revival for the past 15 years or so, Sander's resolutely stripped-back perfectionism has proved tricky to emulate without hollow imitation. Plus the woman herself, now 81, is very much alive and kicking,"
"By contrast, Sander's latest creative head, Simone Bellotti, started with resolute, precise focus for his first Sander show. A black catwalk sliced sharply through the brand's white headquarters on Via Luca Beltrami in Milan, a definitive statement, like a line in the sand. Rather than a metaphorical no-go zone, though, this felt like a break with recent history - here's the stop, and a new start. And the new start? Taking us right back to where Sander began - not just in the building, but the imagery."
"The first model in this Spring/Summer show - the first glimpse at Bellotti's vision - was Guinevere Van Seenus, who featured in a Sander campaign photographed by Craig McDean exactly 30 years ago. Art directed by Marc Ascoli, the most memorable images are, probably, Van Seenus bisected by an elaborate pane of wallpaper, in one just her head, the other"
Simone Bellotti reopened Jil Sander's legacy with a focused Spring/Summer 2026 collection that returned to the brand's minimalist roots. A stark black catwalk cut through the house's white Milan headquarters, signaling a decisive break from recent directions and a renewed start. The presentation leaned on restrained tailoring, sculptural silhouettes and exacting construction while drawing on archival imagery and campaign references. Guinevere Van Seenus opened the show, recalling a Craig McDean-shot campaign from thirty years earlier with Marc Ascoli's art direction and bisected wallpaper compositions. The collection prioritized purpose, conviction and an uncluttered aesthetic over novelty.
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