Nadege Vanhee Puts the Hermes Woman in Sharp Focus
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Nadege Vanhee Puts the Hermes Woman in Sharp Focus
"It's where the familiar becomes unfamiliar, strange. It's a certain way of talking about sexiness - revealing and concealing. I don't want to talk about dichotomies anymore. It's about tandem."
"Tandem means that a woman could be undone, or buttoned-up - or, rather, zipped-up via biker dresses that spiralled around the form, slithering open on one side to reveal the skin within. That's natural, for Hermès, a name synonymous with leather, which was iterated here in second-skin bodysuits, taut miniskirts, and those supple dresses."
"It's about bringing a strong female agency. She was talking in front of a model dressed a little like Lara Croft from Tombraider, in brief cycling shorts under a sliced-out elastic jersey jacket with calfskin collar, a glinting silver châtelaine buckled at her waist."
Hermès transformed a French Republican Guard barracks into an indoor twilight scene for womenswear director Nadège Vanhée's Autumn/Winter show. The collection centers on the concept of 'entre chien et loup'—dusk—where the familiar becomes unfamiliar and strange. Vanhée emphasizes tandem rather than dichotomies, allowing women to be simultaneously undone and buttoned-up through innovative designs. Leather features prominently in second-skin bodysuits, miniskirts, and supple dresses with spiraling biker silhouettes that open to reveal skin. The collection prioritizes strong female agency, drawing inspiration from powerful feminine archetypes. Vanhée plans to launch Hermès' first-ever haute couture line next year, expanding the house's creative vision.
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