More polish, less panto: brands push real clothes' at London fashion week

"London fashion has leant too much into being theatrical. Drama is great, but style is a huge piece of why we buy fashion, said Mario Arena, the creative director of Joseph, at its first catwalk show in eight years. Arena has a subversive idea to re-energise London fashion week. More polish, less pantomime: clothes that sell, rather than clothes that scream. Buyers will say they come to London for innovation,"

"and they go to Italy and France for style. But London used to be a style capital, and it should be again, Arena said on Friday. He is the Australian-born creative director of the brand founded by the late Joseph Ettedgui, which was beloved in the 1980s and 1990s for flattering black trousers, chic leather and knit, and the see-and-be-seen in-store restaurant, Joe's Cafe."

London fashion has leaned toward theatricality, with spectacle often outweighing wearability. Drama can be compelling, but style remains a primary driver of purchasing decisions. A shift toward more polished, commercial clothing could re-energize the London schedule and restore its status as a style capital. Buyers expect innovation from London while looking to Italy and France for style. Consumers increasingly seek versatile garments suitable for desk, dinner and walking the dog. Major brands are pivoting away from edgy streetwear toward classic outerwear and practical pieces, emphasizing clothes that sell rather than designs that scream.

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