Gucci faced a significant decline in sales, reporting a 24% decrease in the last quarter of 2024, following the departure of designer Sabato de Sarno. At Milan fashion week, the brand showcased a collection reflecting its glamorous past, designed by its team without a lead designer. This 'greatest hits' capsule included vintage-inspired pieces, including haute faux-fur coats and daring dresses reminiscent of Jackie Kennedy and Tom Ford's 1990s influence. The presentation emphasized Gucci's potential for revival with strong creative leadership and a vibrant design approach.
At this Milan fashion week, Gucci's numbers were never quite going to add up. Despite having the illustrious, high-value brand name, there is a big fat zero where the designer should be.
The new collection, a group effort by the leaderless design team presented with chin-up fanfare, a live orchestra and trays of champagne, was a statement about what Gucci has been—and can be again with the right creative leader.
Luxe faux fur coats over pencil skirts paid homage to the days when Sophia Loren was a beloved customer at the Gucci store in Rome; shift dresses with oversized buttons and daringly high hemlines brought a dash of Jackie Kennedy.
The design team took a joint bow at the end of the show in matching green Gucci sweatshirts, had fun with the colour palette, and channelled the spirit of Michael Caine in his The Italian Job era.
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