
"It's an interesting connection between that table and these clothes, because Marc Jacobs has been in Wonderland for a few seasons, making garments swollen with great buboes of fabric and wadding that distended and deformed the body, like majestic mutants. They were wondrously otherworldly, outscale and, to most people, unwearable. Intentionally so. This collection, by contrast, brought Jacobs literally down to earth, taking his models off teetering platforms and into plain old high heels."
"They looked like sneakers in comparison, bottoming out models who marched in paucity rather than shuffling in cumbersome excess, hurtling by the audience in strict pencil skirts and little blouses, slim belts, zipped jackets, bag on the shoulder, ugly scrunchies in their hair."
"Memory was something he was connecting with for this collection - "memories shape, influence and inform", Jacobs wrote to introduce the show. Later, a few phrases leapt out: "Who we are" was one. "What we create" was another. Jacobs cited a selection of past collections as influence, mostly stemming from the latter half of the 1990s - by Helmut Lang , Miuccia Prada and several of his own."
Marc Jacobs moved away from recent oversized, sculptural garments toward a restrained, human-scale collection of wearable clothes. Models wore pencil skirts, little blouses, slim belts, zipped jackets and ordinary high heels, presenting streamlined, practical silhouettes rather than exaggerated forms. The runway staging included standard furniture and a pared-back setting that contrasted prior larger-than-life presentations. Memory and past fashion influences guided the aesthetic, with nods to late-1990s American sportswear and designers such as Helmut Lang and Miuccia Prada. Clean lines, sharp colours and New York cool informed the collection's direction.
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