"An approach to fabric, to the body, to craft and to women. Not in that order. Pieter Mulier, a softly-spoken, warm-eyed Belgian, has led Alaïa for just shy of five years. This season, it was his time to say goodbye."
"He has, it's entirely fair to say, re-energised the house that Azzedine built. The labels returned to the 1980s original, as did the eroticised silhouettes, the cut, the ideology. Mulier expanded the business, which is great - Alaïa is now, apparently, the best-selling shoe brand in the London department store Harrod's, outpacing mega luxury competitors."
"But, ultimately, what people will remember is not what you sold, but what you showed. The vision. Mulier's has been formidable."
Pieter Mulier, a Belgian designer, concluded his nearly five-year tenure at Alaïa with his Autumn/Winter 2026 show, marking a significant moment in fashion history. During his leadership, Mulier successfully re-energized the storied house by returning to Azzedine Alaïa's original 1980s aesthetic, emphasizing the brand's signature approach to fabric, body, craft, and women. Under his direction, Alaïa expanded commercially, becoming the best-selling shoe brand at Harrods and opening new stores while increasing turnover. Mulier is transitioning to Versace, another legacy house founded on celebrating supermodels and women's bodies. His final collection represents a meaningful chapter closure, with his vision and creative contributions expected to be remembered more for the collections shown than commercial metrics achieved.
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