"Imagine you're in the middle of dinner. You've been promised eight courses. You think you're almost done. But no, five more are coming. I reviewed Korai Kitchen, a Bangladeshi restaurant in Jersey City. The chef, Nur-E Gulshan Rahman, and her daughter, Nur-E Farhana Rahman, opened Korai Kitchen in 2018. On Fridays and Saturdays, you are invited in for a dawat an invitation to a feast."
"You start with a mango lassi, a refreshing way to clear the palate for what's going to come. Quartet of bhortas, which are mashes. You're going to get a lot of heat from chilie and the steady hum of mustard oil. The bhortas are meant to be eaten with rice. As Nur-E Farhana will tell you, they don't believe in wine pairings. They believe in rice pairings."
"The eggplant dusted with turmeric, fried with a little salt. There's always rui, delicate river fish imported from Bangladesh. Part of the pleasure is working your tongue around all the little bones as you eat. As Nur-E Farhana says, her mother does not believe in anything boneless. This is the way you'd eat it in Bangladesh. And this is the way you'll eat it here."
Korai Kitchen in Jersey City is run by chef Nur-E Gulshan Rahman and her daughter Nur-E Farhana Rahman and offers dawat feasts on Fridays and Saturdays. Guests begin with a mango lassi and progress through numerous courses including a quartet of bhortas seasoned with chiles and mustard oil designed to be eaten with rice. Dishes include turmeric-dusted fried eggplant, rui river fish served with small bones, beef or goat kebabs, and a fragrant murgir roast with chiles and golden raisins. When available, kacchi biryani arrives with richly braised goat and sweet-sour dried plums. Dessert requires seven to eight hours of preparation and finishes the meal.
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