"Ooh, that's a tricky one because sugar does a lot. It helps with structure. It helps with moisture. It helps with tenderness. People add applesauce or any kind of fruit puree or something. You could throw that in there. It's going to affect the texture though. It's not going to be as good. Yeah, you can develop too much gluten and that's going to make for a tough cake."
"You want moist crumbs attached. Ideally, or nothing. Depends on the cake a little bit: If it's wet, you can see the batter is wet on the thing, so it needs to go longer. I often use a knife and I think it works just fine. I like to use toothpicks and a ruler to mark my spots around, and then an offset serrated to go through."
Check cake doneness by looking for moist crumbs or no crumbs; wet batter indicates it needs more time. Use a knife, toothpicks, and a ruler to mark and test evenly, and use an offset serrated knife to slice. If a cake is fragile, freeze it for about 20 minutes to firm it before cutting. Sugar contributes to structure, moisture, and tenderness, and replacing sugar with fruit purées alters texture and may reduce quality. Overworking batter can develop gluten and cause toughness. High-altitude baking requires adjusting sugar, leavening, and fats with trial and error. Use cooling racks for air circulation.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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