"But the holiday season is also the best time for cheese. I consider it high cheese season for peak flavor, when milk that is used to make washed-rind cheeses such as Époisses and Langres and Rush Creek Reserve is richer, fattier, more intense. This is also the time when many cheeses ripened for at least several months reach maturity - Comté, Gruyère, Stilton and aged cheddars."
"Few cities in the world top the cheese-caring culture of Paris, and I recently cruised through a few of its fromageries: Thomas Artisan Fromager on Rue Rambuteau in the 4th arrondissement, Barthélémy on Rue de Grenelle in the 7th, and Taka & Vermo on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis in the 10th (as well as the cheese stalls at the Bastille food market on Sundays)."
"At Thomas, wrinkled pucks and logs and cubes and pyramids of cheeses are stacked unwrapped in open refrigerated cases. The chubby cylinders (a cone-like shape called "bonde") of Chabichou du Poitou were especially pungent-looking. And even this goat's milk cheese, often associated with spring, I especially appreciate in fall because its deliciousness crescendos as it ages for several weeks and the nutty flavor that it develops goes so well with hearty greens of the season - and dried dates and marcona almonds."
Late fall and winter are prime seasons for cheese because milk used to make washed-rind cheeses becomes richer, fattier and more intense. Many cheeses aged for months reach maturity at this time, including Comté, Gruyère, Stilton and aged cheddars. Seasonal fruits and vegetables—apples, pears, roasted squash, persimmons, celeriac, butternuts and cauliflower—pair well with cheeses, as do dried fruit, nuts, membrillo and Champagne. Paris has a strong cheese culture with notable fromageries and markets where cheeses are displayed unwrapped; chubby bonde-shaped Chabichou du Poitou demonstrates how goat’s milk cheeses develop nutty flavors with age that complement hearty greens, dates and marcona almonds.
Read at Los Angeles Times
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